Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France by Michael Steinberger
By Michael Steinberger
A wealthy, energetic booklet concerning the upheaval in French gastronomy, set opposed to the backdrop of France’s diminishing fortunes as a country.
France is in a rut, and so is French food. Twenty-five years in the past it used to be demanding to have a nasty meal in France; now, in a few towns and cities, it's a problem to discover an outstanding one. For the 1st time within the annals of recent cooking, the main influential cooks and the main talked-about eating places on the planet usually are not French. inside of France, huge segments of the wine are in quandary, adored artisanal cheeses are threatened with extinction, and bistros and brasseries are disappearing at an alarming cost. yet enterprise is brisk at a few institutions: Astonishingly, France has turn into the second-most-profitable marketplace on the planet for McDonald’s.
How did this ensue? to determine, Michael Steinberger takes an enviable journey during the conventional pleasures of France. He talks to most sensible chefs—Alain Ducasse, Paul Gagnaire, Paul Bocuse—winemakers, farmers, bakers, and different artisans. He visits the Élysée Palace, interviews the top of McDonald’s Europe, marches down a Paris side road with José Bové, and breaks bread with the editorial director of the strong and secretive Michelin consultant. He spends hours with a few of France’s brightest younger cooks and winemakers, who're struggling with to reinvigorate the country’s wealthy culinary historical past. the result's a pointy and humorous ebook that may provide Francophiles all over a completely new perspective—political, financial, own, and cultural—on the situation within the nation and foodstuff they love.
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Add the shallots and sugar and stir until the sugar begins to dissolve and caramelize, which should take about 5 minutes. Add in the sherry and nutmeg and continue to reduce au sec (which means to cook until it’s reduced to a quarter of its original amount). Season with a pinch of salt. Set aside. 3. In a small bowl, whisk together the cream and eggs, seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside. 4. Divide the caramelized shallots evenly among four shallow 4- to 6-ounce ramekins that have been coated with oil spray, then divide the egg mixture among the ramekins as well.
Adjust the seasonings and refrigerate the soup for at least 30 minutes before serving. 56 GIRL IN THE KITCHEN 3. Toss the shrimp with the sambal and remaining garlic clove and season with salt and pepper. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and sauté until cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the pan to let cool slightly. 4. Divide the gazpacho between serving bowls. Slice the sautéed shrimp crosswise in coins and toss with the reserved mango and the basil.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and flour. Fold in the beer to make a loose batter (add a little extra beer if the batter seems too thick). 5. Dunk the oyster meats in the batter, coating them thoroughly. Carefully drop the battered oysters into the hot oil in small batches, frying until they are crisp and golden. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 6. Reheat the sauté pan with the bacon fat over medium heat.